Christmas Trip to Madeira

Christmas on a volcanic island in the Atlantic - Madeira delivered exactly the dramatic scenery I was hoping for.

Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal, sitting 520 km off the coast of Morocco. With a population of around 250,000, most concentrated in the capital Funchal, the island is essentially a giant volcanic mountain rising from the ocean. The terrain is incredibly steep, with deep ravines and cliffs dropping hundreds of meters to the sea. Fun fact: the island's highest point, Pico Ruivo at 1,862m, is less than 15 km from the coast.

What I Experienced

We rented a villa in Faial on the north side of the island - beautiful views, $2300 for 8 nights split between 6 people. Amazing deal. The villa had a pool, but I only used it once at the start - December in the Atlantic isn't exactly swimming weather.

The highlight was exploring Fanal Forest, an ancient laurel forest that looks like something from a fantasy film. The gnarled, moss-covered trees emerging from thick fog create an otherworldly atmosphere. I captured a panorama there that I'm quite proud of.

We hit all the major spots: the dramatic cliffs of Cabo Girão (one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe), the levada walks with their waterfalls, and Funchal's charming old town. The waterfall shower experience was surprisingly refreshing - standing under cascading mountain water after a hike is something I'd recommend.

The most scenic spot? Ponta de São Lourenço, the eastern peninsula. The landscape there is completely different from the rest of the island - barren, windswept, with red and gold volcanic rock contrasting against the deep blue Atlantic.

Our most ambitious plan was waking up at 6am on December 26th to catch sunrise at Pico do Arieiro (1,818m). We drove up in the dark, arrived above the clouds... and then more clouds rolled in with heavy wind. No sunrise that day. That's how it goes sometimes.

Practical Notes

• North side villas offer better value and dramatic views, but expect more rain
• A car is essential - the island has no meaningful public transport outside Funchal
• The levada walks range from easy strolls to serious hikes - check conditions
• December is low season: fewer tourists, lower prices, but shorter days
• Mountain weather changes rapidly - bring layers even if the coast is warm
• My Madeira waypoints on Google Maps

The high-resolution Fanal Forest panorama is available for purchase with commercial license.